Submitted : 17-04-2024 Revised : 12-07-2024 Accepted : 06-08-2024 Majalah Obat Tradisional (Trad.
Med.
January-April 2025 Vol.
, p 74-90 ISSN-p : 1410-5918 ISSN-e : 2406-9086 Cucumis melo L.
AoGama Melon ParfumAo Extract:
Volatile Compound Profile.
Optimization.
Preparation and Perfume Radar Indra Gunawan1,2.
Budi Setiadi Daryono3.
Eka Noviana4.
Teuku Nanda Saifullah Sulaiman5* 1 Doctoral Program in Pharmacy.
Faculty of Pharmacy.
Universitas Gadjah Mada.
Sleman.
Yogyakarta.
Indonesia.
2 Department of Pharmacy.
Poltekkes Kemenkes Tanjungkarang.
Bandar Lampung.
Lampung.
Indonesia 3 Department of Genetics and Breeding.
Faculty of Biology.
Universitas Gadjah Mada.
Sleman.
Yogyakarta.
Indonesia.
4 Department of Pharmaceutical Chemistry.
Faculty of Pharmacy.
Universitas Gadjah Mada.
Sleman.
Yogyakarta.
Indonesia.
5 Department of Pharmaceutics.
Faculty of Pharmacy.
Universitas Gadjah Mada.
Sleman.
Yogyakarta.
Indonesia.
ABSTRACT
Perfume notes are a sophisticated blend of essential or fragrance oils that give perfumes a distinct Melon notes are highly favored aromatic elements in perfumes.
Melon (Cucumis melo L.
AoGama Melon ParfumA.
, known by the local name Gama Melon Parfum (GMP), is a melon breed that has unique phenotypic characteristics: bitter taste, batik-like pattern, and fragrant aroma.
GMP has a fresh and fruity melon character, typically used as a top note in the perfume pyramid concept.
Our study aimed to develop a perfume derived from GMP volatile extract as a fragrance ingredient.
The process included collection, identification, extraction, physicochemical characterization, volatile compound analysis, perfume optimization, preparation, and perfumery radar.
GMP can serve as the top note in a perfume formulation.
From the D-optimal mixture design, an ideal perfume formula could be created from a mixture of 0.
95 mL GMP, 0.
55 mL rose, and 0.
50 mL vanilla.
The composition was found to produce a perfume that met sensory standards: a transparent and uniform liquid without impurities.
It also had a unique aromatic scent with a relative density of 0.
8102 g/cm3 which fell within the specified range of 0.
200 g/cm3, viscosity of 7931 cps within the required range of 0.
4030 cps, and a hedonic level of 9.
72 cm out of a maximum 00 cm.
The perfume radar showed fruity-floral-musk characteristics.
Results from this research indicate that enhancing GMP as a fragrance ingredient enables the creation of an optimal perfume that meets the required standards, is well-received, and demonstrates an inclination toward femininity.
Keywords: D-optimal mixture design.
Gama Melon Parfum.
perfume notes.
perfume optimization.
perfume radar
INTRODUCTION
Consumer awareness of personal care continues to increase as living standards improve, a factor driving the growth of the global perfume The global perfume market size reached US$35.
5 billion in 2022.
The market of this industry is expected to reach US$50.
4 billion by 2028, exhibiting a growth rate of 6.
05% (IMARC,
Nowadays, ethanol-based perfumes are a standard offering in the fragrance industry (Gunawan et al.
, 2.
Perfumes are a preparation that emits a pleasant odor and are usually liquids made from natural or synthetic ingredients.
Based on the concentration of fragrance in the solvent .
, these cosmetic products are classified into eau de parfum .
-20%), eau de toilette .
%), eau de cologne .
-8%), and aftershaves .
%) (Marcus et al.
, 2.
*Corresponding author : Teuku Nanda Saifullah Sulaiman Email : tn_saifullah@ugm.
The term AunotesAy in perfumes describes the aroma sensed after applying perfumes from the The composition of perfume notes generally refers to the concept of a perfume pyramid, which divides notes based on the period of their fragrance spread.
Top notes disperse first or during the opening of the container, middle notes disperse after the top notes period, and base notes disperse at the end of the period .
ost persistent odo.
(Rodrigues et al.
, 2.
Usually, this concept only applies to products that fall into the fine fragrance category (Chisvert et al.
, 2.
Notes in perfumes are a complex mixture of essential or fragrance oils that give perfumes a unique aroma (Harrison et al.
, 2.
Essential oils are volatile aromatic liquids obtained from plant materials through steam distillation, while fragrance oils are mixtures of synthetic aroma compounds or natural essential oils diluted with a carrier such as propylene glycol, vegetable oil, or mineral oil (Ryos, 2.
DOI: 10.
22146/mot.
95553 | Majalah Obat Tradisional, 30.
, 2025 This work is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-NoDerivatives 4.
0 International License.
Cucumis melo L.
AoGama Melon ParfumAo Extract: Volatile Compound Melon notes are among the most popular character notes in perfume products.
Until now, there are around 150 perfume brands with melon characters as top notes, for example.
AcorelleA Absolu Fruits ZaraA Peach .
com, 2.
The melon notes give a tropical, fresh, and even beach vibe.
These notes add depth and a modern side to a fruity or floral scent.
Melon notes also take center stage in well-known fragrances such as Prescriptives A Calyx.
ClaiborneA for Men, and AramisA New West for Her (Harrison et al.
, 2.
Other notes commonly used in perfumes products besides melon are rose and vanilla.
Rose notes have a fresh lemon scent profile with various powdery, woody, or fruity shades, feminine, clean, and romantic impressions, while vanilla notes in the perfume world are prevalent notes with a strong gourmand character .
weet, cupcake, girl.
Examples of perfumes products that combine notes of rose and vanilla include UnicA Rose & Vanilla.
ManceraA Roses Vanille.
Jo Malone LondonA Rose Water & Vanilla, and Vera WangA Embrace Rose Buds and Vanilla .
com, 2.
Melon (Cucumis melo L.
AoGama Melon ParfumA.
, known by the local name Gama Melon Parfum (GMP), is a melon breed that has unique phenotypic characteristics, including bitter taste, batik-like pattern, and fragrant aroma (Maryanto et al.
, 2.
The aromatic characteristics of this cultivar are influenced by volatile compounds 3pentene 2-ol, hexyl acetate, and 3-hydroxy 2butanone (Hasbullah et al.
, 2.
Various studies on GMP have been recently carried out, including the stability of phenotypic and aroma characters (Maryanto et al.
, 2.
, aroma profiles of volatile compounds (Hasbullah et al.
, 2.
, phenotypic characters and biochemical compounds (Saputri et , 2.
, the antioxidant activity of ethanol extract (Zulfikar et al.
, 2.
, aroma-triggering volatile compounds (Hasbullah et al.
, 2.
phenotypic characters and identification of cyclophilins (CYP.
genes (Wibowo et al.
, 2.
chemical properties and degradation kinetics thermal (Husnun et al.
, 2.
, as well as computational studies as an inhibitor of epidermal growth factor receptor protein (Wibowo et al.
GMP has a fresh and fruity melon character, commonly used as top notes in the perfume pyramid concept.
These notes are generally combined with rose .
or pear .
as middle notes and musk .
or vanilla .
as base notes (Harrison et al.
, 2.
Scientists compounds from fruits for the flavor and fragrance Several fruits extracted include salak (Salacca edulis Rein.
pondoh (Supriyadi et al.
Majalah Obat Tradisional, 30.
, 2025 2.
, combined fruit juices .
range, peach, apple, apricot, pineapple, mango, banana, and passion frui.
(Barba et al.
, 2.
, omija (Schisandra chinesis Baillo.
(Kim et al.
, 2.
GMP melon (Hasbullah et al.
, 2.
, finger limes (Citrus medica sarcodactyli.
(Chen et al.
, 2.
Peruvian pepper (Schinus molle L.
) (Giuffrida et al.
, 2.
peaches (Prunus persica L.
) (Q.
Wang et al.
, 2.
and black cardamom (Ai et al.
, 2.
Researchers have applied optimal volatile compounds for various extraction methods, including cold maceration (Hasbullah et al.
, 2019, 2.
, solventassisted flavor evaporation (SAFE) (CondeMartynez et al.
, 2014.
Goh et al.
, 2019.
Liu et al.
Supriyadi et al.
, 2.
, headspace-stir bar sorptive extraction (HS-SBSE) (Ha et al.
, 2014.
Kaur et al.
, 2011.
Kim et al.
, 2019.
Ryos-Reina et al.
, headspace solid phase microextraction (HSSPME) (Aati et al.
, 2022.
Chen et al.
, 2020.
Mohammadhosseini et al.
, 2021.
Pollo et al.
, 2.
and vacuum freeze-drying (Silva & Schmidt, 2022.
-B.
Wang et al.
, 2022.
Wang et al.
, 2022.
Xu et , 2.
The cold maceration extraction method has the advantage of minimizing contaminants in the extract and preventing the occurrence of secondary compounds caused by heat during The maceration process is conducted at -20AC, or freeze-room temperature, for a whole After the maceration process, substances such as water, proteins, lipids, and carbohydrates will freeze, preventing them from being included in the extract after decantation (Hasbullah, 2.
Although various sophisticated extraction techniques are available, cold maceration remains an excellent technique due to its simplicity, ease, and low-cost application (Hasbullah et al.
, 2019,
The current approach for enhancing the quality of a product is known as quality by design (QBD).
The concept highlights that quality cannot solely assessed by product testing but must be established through design.
A technique commonly employed in implementing the QBD idea is the design of experiment (DoE).
Typically, there are three primary categories of DoE implementation based on the parameters to be researched.
These categories include mixture design, factorial design, and a combination of both (Montgomery, 2.
Mixture design (MD) is employed to characterize and optimize a formula.
Perfumery ternary diagramA (PTDA) is the most recent technique employed in perfume engineering.
PTDA is a derivative of MD used to enhance perfume's scent This approach relies on comparing the structure of the scent pyramid and the engineering of a ternary diagram (Teixeira et al.
, 2.
perfume radar can depict the characteristics and Indra Gunawan path of a smell.
It can be generated by examining panelist evaluations through sensory analysis or odor descriptors of fragrance.
A perfume radar classifies scents into three categories: masculine, feminine, and unisex.
Meanwhile, perfume smell characteristics are categorized into eight primary groups: citrus, fruity, flowery, green, herbaceous, musk, oriental, and woody.
Furthermore, the perfume radar also maps out the structure and essence of perfume fragrances (Teixeira, 2011.
Teixeira et al.
, 2010, 2.
GMP has a fresh melon scent that is suitable for combination with the aroma of roses and the sweet impression of vanilla, which may result in a more feminine perfume Synthetic or fragrance oil is a common ingredient in most perfumes on the market.
Nonetheless, some people frequently experience sensitization, irritation, and allergy due to fragrance oils in cosmetics (Arribas et al.
, 2013.
Reeder, 2.
Although GMP is an inedible melon with an intensely bitter taste, it has a pleasant aroma and the potential to be developed as a natural perfume fragrance safer than synthetic The different outcomes of our preliminary fundamental GMP research confirm this melon cultivar's move towards more practically research in cosmetics, particularly perfume.
This research aims to extract GMP, characterize its physicochemical and olfactory profiles, create perfume notes combinations of GMP extract, rose, and vanilla essential oils, and ascertain the perfumery radar of the optimized perfume.
MATERIALS AND METHODS
Materials and instruments The primary materials used in this work included the rind of melon (Cucumis melo L.
AoGama Melon ParfumA.
, hexane, dichloromethane (SigmaA.
USA), rose and vanilla essential oils (Darjeling A.
Indonesi.
, and ethanol 96 % (BratacoA.
Indonesi.
The characterization of the chemical profile of GMP extract was carried out using a gas chromatography-mass spectrometry (GC-MS) instrument, namely GCMS-QP2010S (ShimadzuA.
Japa.
Methods Samples collection and determination of GMP Samples were harvested from our greenhouse in Mutihan.
Yogyakarta.
Indonesia.
Fruits were harvested sixty days after plantation (DAP) and immediately transported to the The fruitAos rind was removed from the flesh and stored at -20AC until further use (Hasbullah et al.
, 2019, 2.
All parts of the plant .
oots, stems, branches, leaves, and frui.
were submitted for identification at the Plant Systematics Laboratory.
Faculty of Biology.
Universitas Gadjah Mada, to ensure the correct identity of the plant .
ertificate number:
0340/S.
Tb.
/VI/2.
Extraction of GMP With compounds of GMP were extracted from samples via cold maceration using our previously published method (Hasbullah et al.
, 2019, 2.
A dry blender homogenized the fruitAos frozen rind .
After homogenization, the sample was added with a 120 mL hexane/dichloromethane solvent mixture .
:1, v/.
and then sonicated in the water bath for 15 min.
The maceration was continued for 24 h at -20AC to extract the volatile compounds.
The extract was decanted, dried, concentrated to a final volume of 5 mL, and stored in a dark glass vial at -20AC until further analysis.
Volatile compound Analysis of GMP The GCMS-QP2010S (ShimadzuA.
Japa.
with a 70-eV electron impact (EI) mode.
The capillary column Agilent DB-5MS .
m x 0.
25 mm.
film thickness of 0.
was used for separation.
One L of the sample was splitmode injected with a 1:49 split ratio.
The programming, specifically with the oven temperature ranging from 70AC and 300AC and increasing at a rate of 5AC/min.
Helium was used as the carrier gas at a pressure of 30 kPa, with a total flow rate of 35.
6 mL/min.
The GCMS-QP2010 detector temperature was adjusted to 305AC, and a spectrum range of 28-600 m/z was performed.
The compounds were analyzed by comparing the mass spectra of identified peaks from the sample to those of authentic standards in the Wiley 229 Library.
NIST 62 Libraries, and NIST 12 Libraries.
Physicochemical characteristics of fragrance GMP volatile extracts, rose, and vanilla essential oils were used as fragrances, and the final characterization, including color, relative density, solubility in 90% ethanol, optical rotation, refractive index, viscosity, surface tension, acid value, and ester value.
Color A total of 10 mL of sample was pipetted using a pipette with a capacity of 10 mL, then put into a 20 mL test tube, placed on white cardboard, and observed visually at a distance of 30 cm.
Majalah Obat Tradisional, 30.
, 2025 Cucumis melo L.
AoGama Melon ParfumAo Extract: Volatile Compound A triplicate test was performed on the samples (BSN, 2.
Relative density The pycnometer with a capacity of 10 mL was washed with acetone and then dried, along with the interior of the pycnometer and the cover.
The empty pycnometer was weighed using an analytical balance at 20AC, then filled with distilled Following this, the cover was inserted, and the outside was dried.
The same procedure was carried out for the samples.
The relative density formula was used to conduct the calculations.
Determinations and calculations of the samples were performed in triplicate (BSN, 2014.
ISO,
Solubility in 90% ethanol A total of two mL of samples were mixed with 90% ethanol .
:1 volume rati.
in a 10 mL measuring cup with a lid.
The mixture was shaken, then determined whether the solution was clear and transparent.
The samples were then tested in triplicate (BSN, 2.
Optical rotation The light source was lit in the polarimeter using a sodium lamp, producing monochromatic light with a 589.
3 A 0.
3 nm wavelength.
The blank test was done by reading the polarimeter to an accuracy of 0.
5 mrad (A 0.
03A).
The polarimeter tube was filled with the sample in the tube.
The tube was placed in a polarimeter, and then the dextro ( ) or levo (-) optical rotation was read on the instrument scale.
Optical rotation was expressed in circumferential degrees up to 0.
The dextro optical dial was marked ( ), while the left is marked (-).
The average of the three readings was recorded with a difference of no more than 08A (BSN, 2.
Refractive index A drop of the sample was placed in the refractometer, then closed tightly.
This allowed the light to pass through the sample solution and the prism, causing the light on the screen on the instrument to split into two.
The boundary mark was moved by turning the control knob until it reached the intersection point of the two diagonal lines, allowing for the observation and reading of the refractive index scale through the microscope.
The samples were tested in triplicate (ISO, 1998.
Viscosity Aquadest was pumped to a level above the marking line A on the Ostwald viscometer, and subsequently allowed to flow downwards.
When Majalah Obat Tradisional, 30.
, 2025 the aquadest reached this marker, the stopwatch was turned on.
Once it reached line B, the stopwatch was turned off, and the flow time was The same procedure was carried out on the samples.
The temperature was measured by inserting a thermometer into the viscometer.
Calculations for the sample were carried out using the viscosity formula in triplicate (Jain et al.
Surface tension The sample was briefly dipped into a capillary tube marked with a limit mark, allowing it to rise above the marked level, and the increase was measured.
Calculations were carried out using the surface tension formula.
Determinations and calculations of the samples were carried out in triplicate (Jain et al.
, 2012.
Acid value A total of 4 g A 0.
05 g of sample was weighed on an analytical balance and dissolved in 5 mL of neutral ethanol in a 250 mL capacity saponification flask with a round bottom made of alkali-resistant glass, equipped with a glass tube with a minimum length of one meter and a minimum diameter of Then, phenolphthalein solution were added as an This solution was titrated with 0.
potassium hydroxide (KOH) until a pink color Calculations were carried out using the acid number formula.
Determinations and calculations of the samples were carried out in triplicate (BSN, 2.
Ester value A total of 4 g A 0.
05 g of sample was weighed on an analytical balance, dissolved in 25 mL of 5 N potassium hydroxide (KOH) solution in neutral ethanol with several pieces of porcelain in a 250 mL round bottom alkaline saponification flask equipped with a glass tube with a minimum length of one meter and a diameter of at least one It was then boiled until cooked, and subsequently five drops of phenolphthalein solution and titrate with 0.
5 N HCl were added until a color change was visible.
The value was calculated using the ester value formula.
Sample determination and calculation were carried out in triplicate (BSN, 2.
Perfume optimization, preparation, and perfume radar Perfume optimization refers to a modified perfumery ternary diagramA (PTDA) concept (Teixeira, 2011.
Teixeira et al.
, 2.
using a mixture design assisted by Design ExpertA12 Indra Gunawan software (Statease, 2.
to optimize relative density and viscosity (Abdolmaleki et al.
, 2019.
BSN, 1.
as well as hedonic responses (Meilgaard et al.
, 2.
Perfume preparation was carried out by taking each fragrance ingredient using a micropipette to a total mixture of 2 mL and then placing it in a glass bottle with a capacity of 20 The resulting mixture was diluted with 96% ethanol to 20 mL, which produced eau de toilette type (Marcus et al.
, 2.
The glass bottle was tightly closed and stored for seven days for the aging process at room temperature and further The relative density and viscosity of the perfume mixtures were measured using procedures similar to those described above.
Hedonic response measurements were carried out after obtaining ethical clearance from the Medical and Health Research Ethics Committee (MHREC) of Faculty of Medicine.
Public Health, and Nursing at Universitas Gadjah Mada - Dr.
Sardjito General Hospital .
ertificate no.
KE/FK/0065/EC/2.
The hedonic testing was conducted by exposing 16 perfume formulas with three letters of random codes to 75 participants.
Inclusion criteria for the study participants included untrained female panelists aged 18-23 years without neurological diseases or olfactory disorders.
Each tested perfume was sprayed on a paper strip twice.
Then, the panelists gave a hedonic assessment of the perfume aroma by sniffing and marking a AupointAy on a 15.
00 cm-long horizontal line and a vertical line at both ends.
The centimeter .
was a unit used to measure the results of hedonic measurements of perfume.
The values ranged from 00 cm to 15.
00 cm, with higher values indicating a greater preference by the panelists (Meilgaard et , 2.
The perfume radar was determined from the checklist given to the untrained panelists during the testing, in which they were requested to select from eight fragrance characteristics: citrus, fruity, floral, green, herbaceous, musk, oriental, and woody.
Panelists were given absolute freedom to choose from the eight available fragrance character options according to personal interpretation, and then the total number of choices made by the panelists was converted into a radar chart using CanvaE.
RESULTS
Phenotypic characteristics of GMP The samples collected were characterized by a very fragrant fruit aroma like perfume, weighing between 300-500 grams, with an oblate fruit shape, a pistil protrusion at the bottom of the fruit, yellow-brown fruit skin with unique ornaments forming longitudinal lines, white flesh, and no visible netting (Figure .
Based on these phenotypic characteristics.
GMP is a melon cultivar classified as non-edible because of its bitter For this reason, it is typically used as a cosmetic or pharmaceutical raw material (Daryono, 2019.
Daryono & Maryanto, 2017.
Zulfikar et al.
, 2.
Figure 1.
Gama melon parfum (GMP) Determination of GMP The following results were obtained from the determination carried out at the Plant Systematics Laboratory.
Faculty of Biology.
Universitas Gadjah Mada .
ertificate no.
0340?S/Tb/VI/2.
Kingdom : Plantae.
Division : Magnoliophyta.
Class : Magnoliopsida.
Order :
Cucurbitales.
Family : Cucurbitaceae.
Genus :
Cucumis.
Species : Cucumis melo L.
Cultivar :
Cucumis melo L.
AoGama Melon ParfumAo.
Local name : Gama Melon Parfum Based on this identification, the difference between GMP and melons currently exist worldwide is in the cultivar.
GMP is a cultivar from crossing the parent melon NO3 from Turkmenistan (Central Asi.
and the parent melon from Japan.
The parent melon NO3 has small size, fragrant aroma, orange skin color, does not have lobes and long lines, and has a bitter taste, while the parent MR is of medium size, no fragrant aroma, has green fruit skin color, lobes and long lines, and is sweet (Daryono & Maryanto.
Hasbullah, 2014.
Hasbullah et al.
, 2019,
Husnun et al.
, 2022.
Maryanto et al.
, 2014.
Saputri et al.
, 2020.
Wibowo et al.
, 2021.
Zulfikar et , 2.
Volatile compound profile of GMP Forty-one volatile chemicals from GMP extract were identified using GC-MS (Figure .
The extract consisted of nine esters .
67%), six alcohols .
21%), two phenols .
19%),
seventeen hydrocarbons .
06%), five terpenes Majalah Obat Tradisional, 30.
, 2025 Cucumis melo L.
AoGama Melon ParfumAo Extract: Volatile Compound Figure 2.
Chromatogram of GMP volatile compound by GC-MS .
67%), one ketone .
47%), and one halide .
28%).
Esters were the most prevalent in the GMP, with terpenes, hydrocarbons, phenols, halides, and ketones following in that order (Table I).
GMP extract profile indicated a high concentration of esters and a lower presence of The formation of esters during ripening is likely due to the esterification process between alcohols and acids (Hasbullah et al.
, 2.
Ester compounds in GMP contributing to its fragrance are hexadecanoic acid .
reamy candle waxy nuanc.
(TGSC, 2023.
, octyl ethanoate .
loral, herbaceous, and fruity characteristic.
(TGSC, 2023.
, and ethyl C-hexadec-9-enoate .
ild waxy, fruity, creamy milky balsamic, greasy oily trait.
(TGSC, 2023.
Ester volatile chemicals are produced when alcohol is esterified by alcohol acetyltransferase (AAT) (W.
Liu et al.
, 2.
Mechanism typically involves using a coenzyme A moiety or coenzyme A ester as an acyl donor.
The scent of volatile esters is produced when alcohol reacts with short-chain fatty acids, catalyzed by acylCoAacyl phospholipid breakdown as the fruit ripens (Hasbullah, 2.
The alcohol group responsible for the GMP aroma was identified as tetrahydrofuran-2ylmethanol, which has a moderate, warm, greasy (Echemi.
Alcohol dehydrogenase (ADH) catalyzes the reduction of aldehydes to produce volatile alcohol compounds.
Additionally, volatile alcohol compounds are generated as by-products of lipid catabolism (Hasbullah, 2.
Delta-tocopherol and gammatocopherol are phenolic compounds produced in large quantities but do not contribute significantly to the fragrant character of GMP.
Da Silva and Jorge Majalah Obat Tradisional, 30.
, 2025 .
documented melon's content and gammatocopherol levels.
While beta- and deltatocopherols were measured collectively, gammatocopherol was the most prevalent form in melon (Da Silva & Jorge, 2014.
Shahidi & De Camargo.
The identified hydrocarbon components do not add to the GMP scent profile.
Obando-Ulloa et .
found that the probable fragrance profile of melon is determined by three specific branched alkanes: 2-methylpentane, 3-methylpentane, and methylcyclopentane (Obando-Ulloa et al.
, 2.
the terpenes group, 3,7-Dimethyloct-6-en-1-ol contributes to floral, rosy, sweet citrus with green fatty terpene nuances (TGSC, 2023.
, while stigmasterol presents sweet odor characteristics (Bakrim et al.
, 2.
Terpenes are organic compounds consisting of molecules with the formula (C5H.
n, commonly present in plants.
These molecules are part of the biogenic volatile organic compounds (BVOC.
group, a varied and extensive category of secondary plant They are commonly used in the medical, flavor, and fragrance sectors (Kanwal et al.
, 2.
The chemical 4-Hydroxy-4methylpentan-2-one, including a ketone group, has a subtle and minty smell (NIOSH, 2.
Ketone volatile molecules can arise from intermediary substances in the production of leucine, valine, and pantothenate, as well as lipid metabolism (Hasbullah,2.
The chlorine-like scent detected is believed to have originated from .
Z,12Z)octadeca-9,12-dienoyl dichloromethane solvent used during extraction.
Physicochemical characteristics of fragrance In the following research stage, the following physicochemical properties were determined for GMP volatile extract, rose, and Indra Gunawan Table I.
Volatile compounds profile in GMP extract Compound name (IUPAC) CAS No.
Area
(%)
Odor description Esters Octyl ethanoate 112-14-1 Propan-2-yl tetradecanoate Ethyl C-hexadec-9-enoate 110-27-0 54546-22-4 35.
Tetradecyl (Z)-octadec-9-enoate [.
S)-2-methyl-4-oxo-3-[(Z)-pent-2eny.
cyclopent-2-en-1-y.
R,3R)-2,2dimethyl-3-.
-methylprop-1eny.
cyclopropane-1-carboxylate C-Hexadec-9-enoic acid 22393-85-7 49.
4466-14-2 55.
Floral, herbaceous, fruity (TGSC, 2023.
Faint, oily fatty (TGSC, 2023.
Mild waxy, fruity, creamy milky balsamic, greasy oily (Chemicalbook, 2023.
No data available No data available 10030-73-6 34.
Smell of the human body (Nakamura, 1.
Creamy candle waxy nuance (TGSC, 2023.
Faint fatty (TGSC, 2023.
Lard-like odor (FAO, 2.
Hexadecanoic acid
57-10-3
Octadeca-9,12-dienoic acid
(Z)-octadec-9-enoic acid
Alcohols Tetrahydrofuran-2-ylmethanol
2197-37-7
112-80-1
97-99-4
2-[.
Z,12Z)-octadeca-9,1217367-08-7 dienox.
ethanol Hentriacontan-1-ol
544-86-5
Nonacosan-1-ol
6624-76-6
Heptacosan-1-ol
2004-39-9
Docosan-1-ol
661-19-8
Phenols .
R)-2,8-dimethyl-2-[.
R,8R)-4,8,12119-13-1 trimethyltridecy.
-3,4-dihydrochromen6-ol .
R)-2,7,8-trimethyl-2-[.
R,8R)-4,8,1254-28-4 trimethyltridecy.
-3,4-dihydrochromen6-ol Hydrocarbons Dodec-1-ene 112-41-4 Mild, warm, oily caramel aroma (Echemi, 2.
No data available No data available No data available No data available Characteristic (TGSC, 2023.
Characteristic (TGSC, 2023.
Characteristic (TGSC, 2023.
Tetradec-1-ene 1120-36-1 Pentadec-1-ene Hexadec-1-ene 13360-61-7 26.
629-73-2
Octadec-1-ene 112-88-9
Nonadecane Docos-1-ene Cyclotridecane Heptadecane Octadecane Cyclotetracosane Octacosane Hexatriacontane 629-92-5
1599-67-3
295-02-3
629-78-7
593-45-3
297-03-0
630-02-4
630-06-8
Mild and pleasant smell (Jones, 2.
Mild pleasant odor (USCG.
Odorless (Fischersci, 2020.
Mild hydrocarbon odor (Chemicalbook, 2023.
Mild hydrocarbon odor (Chemicalbook, 2023.
Fuel-like (Chung et al.
, 1.
No data available No data available Fuel-like (Chung et al.
, 1.
Fuel-like (Chung et al.
, 1.
No data available No data available Odorless (Fischersci, 2020.
Majalah Obat Tradisional, 30.
, 2025 Cucumis melo L.
AoGama Melon ParfumAo Extract: Volatile Compound Table I.
(Continue.
Compound name (IUPAC) C-hexacos-9-ene Henicosane Tetratetracontane Nonadec-1-ene Terpenes .
E,10E,14E,18E)-2,6,10,15,19,23Hexamethyltetracosa-2,6,10,14,18,22hexaene 3,7-Dimethyloct-6-en-1-ol .
S,8S,9S,10R,13R,14S,17R)-17[(E,2R,5S)-5-ethyl-6-methylhept-3-en-2y.
-10,13-dimethyl2,3,4,7,8,9,11,12,14,15,16,17dodecahydro-1Hcyclopenta.
phenanthren-3-ol .
R,3aR,5aR,5bR,7aR,9S,11aR,11bR,13a R,13bR)-3a,5a,5b,8,8,11a-hexamethyl-1prop-1-en-2-yl1,2,3,4,5,6,7,7a,9,10,11,11b,12,13,13a,13 b-hexadecahydrocyclopenta.
chrysen9-ol .
R,3aR,5aR,5bS,9S,11aS,11bR,13aS,13b R)-3a,5a,8,8,11b,13a-hexamethyl-3propan-2-yl1,2,3,4,5,5b,6,9,10,11,11a,12,13,13btetradecahydrocyclopenta.
chrysen-9ol Ketones 4-Hydroxy-4-methylpentan-2-one Halides .
Z,12Z)-octadeca-9,12-dienoyl chloride .
71502-22-2 50.
629-94-7
7098-22-8 54.
18435-45-5 58.
Area
(%)
Odor description No data available Odorless (Chung et al.
, 1.
No data available No data available 111-02-4 Faint odor (Cameo, 2.
106-22-9
83-48-7
Floral, rosy, sweet, citrus with green fatty terpene nuances (TGSC, 2023.
Characteristic of sweet odor (Bakrim et al.
, 2.
545-47-1
No data available 1615-94-7 No data available 123-42-2 Faint, minty odor (NIOSH, 7459-33-8 Chlorine-like (Fischersci.
CAS No.
vanilla essential oils as fragrance components:
color, relative density, solubility in 90% alcohol, optical rotation, refractive index, viscosity, surface tension, acid value, and ester value (Table II).
In the perfumery industry, special attention is given to the performance of fragrance in the composition of perfumes.
Solubility in alcohol is the main physical characteristic of fragrances used in perfume formulations because it functions as a solvent, carrier, fixative, and antimicrobial agent (Chisvert et al.
, 2018.
Gut et al.
, 2020.
Miastkowska et al.
, 2018.
Miastkowska & LasoE.
Sikora et al.
, 2.
The fragrance ingredients (GMP, rose, and vanill.
used in perfume formulations are entirely soluble in 90% alcohol, thus meeting the requirements to be formulated in perfume.
In contrast, the main Majalah Obat Tradisional, 30.
, 2025 chemical characteristic of fragrance ingredients is ester value.
The ester compound determines the base character of perfumes and defines the AushapeAy of a perfume based on its fragrance characteristics.
Rose has the highest ester number, followed by GMP and vanilla.
A higher ester value indicates a more pungent and more complex aroma of fragrances (Niu et al.
, 2018, 2019, 2.
Perfume optimization and preparation A total of 16 runs of mixed fragrances (GMP, rose, and vanill.
resulting from the optimization of the mixture design from Design ExpertA12 were produced and met organoleptic requirements, including clear, homogeneous, particle-free liquid and a distinctive fragrant odor (BSN, 1.
D-optimal mixture design optimization produced Indra Gunawan Table II.
Physicochemical characteristics of fragrance components Physicochemical characteristics Color Relative density .
AC) Solubility in 90% alcohol Optical rotation (A) Refractive index Viscosity .
Surface tension .
N/.
Acid value Ester value Volatile extract/essential oil .
GMP
Rose
Vanilla
Yellow
Colorless
Brown
0267 A 0,0003
0134 A 0.
0571 A 0.
1:1 .
1:1 .
1:1 .
10 A 0.
32 A 0.
not measurable 429 A 0.
508 A 0.
424 A 0.
760 A 0.
202 A 0.
650 A 0.
23 A 0,25
05 A 0.
93 A 0.
19 A 0.
62 A 0.
48 A 0.
13 A 0.
45 A 0.
06 A 0.
perfumes with relative densities between 0.
8301 g/cm3, viscosities between 0.
cps, and hedonic responses between 8.
84 to 10.
These optimal responses were obtained from the composition of GMP 0.
10 mL, rose 0.
80 mL, and vanilla 0.
30 - 0.
50 mL with a dilution of 18 mL of 96% alcohol in each formula (Table .
The D-optimal mixture design optimization results were then used to determine the optimal formula using previously defined criteria (Table IV) by recreating the formula with three replications, followed by characterization.
The requirements for each composition of fragrance or notes (GMP, rose, vanill.
were chosen Auin rangeAy because it refers to a modification of the PTDA concept with a range of GMP .
op note.
of 45% to 55%, rose .
iddle note.
of 20% to 40%, and vanilla .
ase note.
of 15% to 25% diluted with 96% alcohol (Teixeira, 2011.
Teixeira et al.
, 2.
The relative density and viscosity response criteria were deliberately kept minimal in order to facilitate the distribution of the perfume through a sprayer on the bottle.
This is because lower values of these two parameters result in faster release of the aroma, meeting the quality requirements for non-aerosol alcoholic liquid perfumes whose distribution mechanism is not assisted by gas pressure (Chisvert et al.
, 2.
Meanwhile, the hedonic response criteria were maximized because it is the primary response for assessing consumersAo liking toward a perfume (Apaolaza et al.
, 2.
Optimization was carried out based on these criteria using Design ExpertA12 to obtain an optimal formula with prepared response The optimal formula was GMP 95 mL, rose 0.
55 mL, and vanilla 0.
50 mL.
The aim of formula optimization for cosmetic preparations, including perfumes, is generally to determine the variable levels of solid products with high-quality characteristics that can be produced.
The results of the optimal formula are characterized, including relative density, viscosity, and hedonic.
The measurement results are then compared with the predicted values obtained from Design ExpertA12, and the deviation values are calculated.
The result is considered good if the deviation is less than 10%.
A comparison of the predicted and experimental values (Table V) shows that the deviation value (% bia.
obtained is less than 10%, indicating that the experimental results are close to the predicted results (Syukri & Nugroho, 2.
The range of relative density and viscosity values will impact the sprayability of the perfume through the bottle's sprayer valve.
Perfume with an alcohol composition of 90% (EDT typ.
requires a relative density and viscosity value range of 0.
- 1.
2000 g/cm3 and 0.
7830 - 1.
4030 cps, respectively, which is expected to produce a perfume that is easy to spray and spreads on the skin in a constant amount.
The values obtained in this research were a relative density of 8102 g/cm3 and a viscosity of 0.
7931 cps with a clear, light-yellow solution.
These results indicate that the perfume produced meets the organoleptic quality requirements for non-aerosol liquid perfume, featuring a clear, homogeneous liquid free of foreign particles and, naturally, having a distinctive fragrant aroma (BSN, 1998.
Herryez & Belda, 2.
Perfume radar The results of the perfume radar, based on the measurement of the character of the fragrance by 75 untrained panelists across 16 perfume formulas containing GMP, rose, and vanilla (Figure .
, revealed that the predominant character of the perfume was fruity-floral-musk.
possible explanation for this might be due to the role of GMP as top notes with more composition than the other two components.
The characteristics of the GMP, like typical melon notes, impart a tropical, fresh, and beach-like ambiance.
The notes enhance the complexity and contemporary aspect of a fruity or flowery Rose notes are characterized by a fresh Majalah Obat Tradisional, 30.
, 2025 Cucumis melo L.
AoGama Melon ParfumAo Extract: Volatile Compound Table i.
Optimization design of fragrance mixture in 20 mL perfumes Run Fragrance composition .
L) Alcohol
GMP
Rose Vanilla Relative density .
/cm.
8300 A 0.
8178 A 0.
8227 A 0.
8202 A 0.
8218 A 0.
8300 A 0.
8217 A 0.
8175 A 0.
8143 A 0.
8151A 0.
8148 A 0.
8261 A 0.
8179 A 0.
8261 A 0.
8200 A 0.
8301 A 0.
Responses .
Viscosity .
8361 A 0.
8360 A 0.
8566 A 0.
8668 A 0.
8853 A 0.
8581 A 0.
8940 A 0.
8651 A 0.
8070 A 0.
8438 A 0.
8092 A 0.
8792 A 0.
8048 A 0.
8167 A 0.
8294 A 0.
8396 A 0.
Hedonic .
45 A 3.
16 A 3.
37 A 3.
24 A 3.
44 A 3.
20 A 3.
84 A 3.
09 A 3.
55 A 2.
95 A 2.
17 A 2.
94 A 2.
66 A 3.
99 A 3.
30 A 3.
02 A 2.
Table IV.
Criteria for optimal perfume formula Parameter GMP Rose Vanilla Relative density Viscosity Hedonic Criteria In range In range In range In range Minimize Maximize Lower 90 mL 40 mL 30 mL 7000 g/cm3 7830 cps 00 cm Upper 10 mL 80 mL 50 mL 2000 g/cm3 4030 cps 00 cm Table V.
Comparison of predicted and observed values Parameter Relative density .
/cm.
Viscosity .
Hedonic .
Predicted lemon aroma with powdery, woody, or fruity undertones, giving off a feminine, clean, and romantic vibe.
Vanilla notes in perfumery are dominant and have a rich gourmand quality.
Combining three notes creates a gentle, musky effect (Ahmad et al.
, 2020.
Harrison et al.
, 2018.
com, 2.
The combination was demonstrated to be suitable for this perfume's target, represented by the untrained female panelists aged 18-23 participating in this research.
DISCUSSION